Posts Tagged ‘Lake’

A North Royalton Heating Contractor Tip: Signs of an Undersized Furnace

Wednesday, December 7th, 2011

If you’re purchasing a new furnace for your North Royalton home, you want to avoid buying one that is undersized for your particular space. To do that, here are some common signs that the furnace isn’t powerful enough for the heating needs of your home. These signs might appear for an older furnace as well, especially as it ages and loses its ability to provide adequate heat for your home.

Maintaining Temperature

The most common (and in many cases only) sign that your furnace is undersized is that the device simply doesn’t maintain the temperature in your home properly. This means that when turned on to full and left for a few hours, your furnace doesn’t heat your home to the thermostat setting.

This can be due to an improper load calculation or a load calculation that wasn’t taken at all. The perfectly sized furnace will heat your home evenly on the coldest day your area is likely to have. So, undersizing should be pretty evident – if it doesn’t heat your home evenly and it’s not exceptionally cold outside, you might not have enough BTUs under the hood.

How to Fix the Problem

The problem is one that varies depending on the severity of the undersizing. Modern furnaces are often available with two stages, meaning they can operate at both a low BTU rating (often around 40K or so) and a higher BTU rating (70K or higher). This is the perfect solution for homeowners worried about undersizing because it ensures that your home always has enough heat in reserve should the weather get exceptionally cold.

For example, most furnaces are sized for extremely low temperatures, but if the temperature jumps up to 50 degrees F outside, your furnace is now oversized for that weather. A two stage furnace offers solutions for both common conditions and extreme conditions and will resolve most of the concern you have about undersizing and not having enough heat to offset outdoor temperatures.

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Plumbing Basics: A Guide from West Side

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011

There are a lot of pipes, drains, fixtures and appliances in your West Side home carrying out some pretty incredible tasks. For most people, plumbing is just another system that makes their lives easier. But, if something goes wrong, it’s important that you know exactly what to do and for that, you need to know how your system works.

Fundamental Plumbing

Plumbing is based entirely on the properties of gravity and water pressure. A plumbing system has two basic systems – one that brings water in and one that removes that water once you’ve used it. To bring water into your home, it is pressurized. With enough pressure, it can travel against gravity, rising in the pipes to your fixtures.

Every fixture in your home has a valve on it that allows you to shut off the flow of water when making repairs or if there is an emergency. If the emergency is big enough, you can turn the main water supply valve off outside your home as well.

Drainage Systems

While the water coming into your home is relatively simple – pressurized cold water goes directly to the fixtures and hot water comes from your hot water heater – the drainage system is slightly more complicated.

Once water has exited the faucets in your fixtures, it is no longer pressurized so gravity is needed to remove it. Each drain consists of a few basic parts – the flange, tail piece, trap, and drain extension. When you put water down a drain it goes into the trap and flows into the drain extension, eventually to the sewer line.

The trap is designed to always hold a small amount of water so that sewer gasses cannot back up into your fixtures. Vents are installed in your home as well to ensure there is always air in the plumbing system. That air ensures a vacuum doesn’t generate. If it did, water couldn’t flow out of the house. It’s the same as pouring from a small hole in a can – if you poke a hole in the opposite side, it flows much faster because air enters the can to displace the liquid.

Fixing Your Problems

A plumbing system is surprisingly simple to work on if you understand the basics. But, that doesn’t mean a professional isn’t needed for most major jobs. Because a single fixture or pipe can have an impact on the entire system and because water leakage can be incredibly damaging, it is best to call a professional whenever you need a second opinion or are unsure you can handle it on your own.

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The Do’s and Don’ts of Clogged Drains: A Tip From Amherst

Friday, September 16th, 2011

Clogged and slow drains can be a real bummer in your Amherst home. Water standing in the kitchen sink is gross, and no one likes to shower with the tub gradually filling around their feet. Calling a plumber when the clog gets out of hand is easy enough, but it’s expensive. Plus, it means having to do without whatever water source that drain is involved with until a plumber can get there to fix it, which can sometimes mean hours or even days.

The best solution, then, is to prevent clogs from forming. With proper use, some brief regular maintenance and a few tricks, most clogs can be stopped dead in their tracks before becoming a problem. Follow these guidelines and you may never need to make that emergency plumber call again.

Don’t

First of all, there are some things you just shouldn’t do to your drains and pipes. These things can quickly lead to clog buildup, so avoid them:

  • Don’t pour liquid grease, such as bacon grease, down drains. It can solidify in the pipes and cause a clog.
  • Don’t flush anything down the toilet that is not designed to be flushed.
  • Avoid using bleach or other chemicals to clean tubs, sinks and drains. Particles from these cleansers can build up to cause clogs, or even erode pipes.

Do

Even with best practices, no drain will remain completely clean. However, a little proactivity can stop everyday residue from accumulating and forming a nasty clog. Try some of these maintenance tips to keep things running smoothly:

  • Use a screen, guard or trap. These can catch food, hair and other debris which would otherwise wind up sitting in your pipes.
  • Clean sink and drain stoppers regularly. Debris can get trapped on and under the stoppers, just waiting to break loose and cruise into the drain to cause a clog.
  • A few times a year, stop up your sinks and tub, fill them up all the way, then let them drain. The pressure and volume of the water will help shake loose deposits in the pipes.
  • Once a month or so, carefully pour boiling water down the drain to dislodge stubborn deposits. You can also do this any time you notice a drain is starting to run slow. Vinegar is also effective.

It really can be as simple as that to keep your drains clear and avoid using nasty chemicals or shelling out big bucks to a plumber in an emergency.

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How Do EER and SEER Work? A Question From Vermillion

Friday, August 19th, 2011

If you’ve looked for a new air conditioner in Vermillion recently, you probably noticed each unit comes with an EER or SEER rating. The former is for room air conditioners and the latter for central air conditioning units. In both cases, the number is a measure of how efficiently the system uses electricity. Effectively, if you buy a system with a high rating, you spend less on electricity. Of course, there are tradeoffs. The higher rated machines tend to cost much more, so as a homeowner, you’ll have to evaluate how much you can spend now and how long it will take to save money from that investment.

How EER and SEER Are Measured

These numbers are required by the government to tell you, the consumer, how many BTUs per hour the device can use for every watt of electricity drawn. The more BTUs a system can use, the better for your bill.

Let’s say you want to buy a 10,000 BTU system to cool your living room and dining room. A pretty standard number for a single room unit is 11, meaning the 10,000 BTU system would use about 900 watts per hour to run at full capacity. We figure this out by dividing the BTUs (10,000) by the watts (900).

There is a lot of math to do here, so many people simply look for a higher number within their price range. But, at what point is the upgrade really worth your extra money?

Choosing the Right Energy Efficiency Rating

The easiest way to describe this is to compare two similar devices with different EERs:

Air Conditioner 1 Air Conditioner 2
BTUs 12,000 12,000
EER 9 11
Watts 1333 1091
Price $300 $450

In this particular case, we can spend more for a device that is the same size but uses less electricity. The question then is whether that increased expenditure will pay off in the short term. Let’s assume each device would be operated for 10 hours per day for 30 days in a typical summer month. That’s 300 hours of operation. If the average cost per kWh in you are is $0.09, it will take 4 hours for the first air conditioner to consume 1 extra kilowatt of electricity equal to an additional $0.09. If your air conditioner runs for four months out of the year, we know that it will operate for a total of 1200 hours. That means:

[(1200 hrs x 242 watts) / (1000 watts/kw) ] x $0.09/kWh = $26

So, you save roughly $26 per year from that high efficiency unit. With a $150 price difference, you will break even after 6 years (though probably sooner if the price of electricity goes up).

Don’t forget, however, that central systems are a much more efficient option with SEERs of up to 16.5 and much larger BTU areas to cover. The savings there can add up very quickly.

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What Is the Energy Star Label?

Friday, June 17th, 2011

Any time you go out and buy any type of appliance, you probably notice that some have a distinct mark that signifies them as Energy Star appliances. That sounds like a good thing, of course, but what does it actually mean? Should you always buy an Energy Star model over another type?

The Energy Star label was originally developed to help consumers more easily recognize appliances that are more energy efficient than the average. In order to obtain an Energy Star seal of approval, any device must meet very strict guidelines when it comes to energy efficiency.

What that translates into for you as a consumer is a lower monthly energy bill when you buy Energy Star appliances. Of course, once they have obtained an Energy Star labels, manufacturers can charge whatever they want for their product, and it is not unusual to pay more for a model that is certified an Energy Star.

However, as long as the potential savings over time that you will get by using the Energy Star model as opposed to one that is not as energy efficient outweigh the difference in initial purchase price, it is worth it to spend a bit more on the Energy Star model.

Keep in mind, though, that just because a produce meets the Energy Star guidelines for energy efficiency does not necessarily mean that it is a superior product in terms of quality or overall effectiveness. Plus, not all Energy Star appliances are created equal. You should still do your research and pick out the product that will both save you the most money and has the best chance of getting the job done right.

Another benefit to Energy Star products is that, because they use less energy when they run, they also have a smaller impact on the environment than a model that uses a greater amount of energy to perform the same tasks.

Overall, it is definitely worth taking a closer look at all of the Energy Star options out there when you are purchasing an air conditioning system or any other type of appliance. Using less energy is always a good thing both for your bank account and for the planet. But you also want to make sure you are actually getting the best product for your money.

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Evaporative Coolers

Monday, May 2nd, 2011

If you’re looking for an effective alternative to a traditional air conditioning system for your home, an evaporative cooler is a great option to investigate. This is not new technology by any means, but evaporative coolers are rapidly gaining popularity these days for several reasons. While these aren’t the perfect solution for every home, they’re definitely worth taking a closer look at if you’re interested in cutting your cooling costs.

Here are some of the benefits of evaporative coolers:

• Energy Efficiency – Because they cool air through evaporation, evaporative coolers use much less energy than traditional air conditioners to achieve the same results. This will take a big chunk off your energy bills each month.

• Competitive Pricing – You can buy just about any size evaporative cooler for less than a comparably sized air conditioner. And just like air conditioners, evaporative coolers are available in a wide variety of sizes so you should have no trouble finding one to fit the space you need cooled.

• Easy Installation – Whether you opt for a smaller window unit or a larger centralized one, evaporative coolers are at least as easy to install as air conditioners if not more so. The smaller units are made to fit into windows just like a comparably sized air conditioner, and central evaporative coolers operate through the same air ducts as your central heating system. They’re easy to integrate into your home and often less labor intensive than a central air conditioner to install.

• Complete Air Circulation – With an air conditioner, you need to have your windows and doors sealed up tight to keep the cooled air from escaping. But because evaporative coolers work by cooling outdoor air as they bring it into your home, they require other doors and windows in the house to be open to function efficiently. As the evaporative cooler blows cooled air into the house, it pushes hotter air out, leaving you with a comfortable environment and a constant supply of fresh air.

Of course, evaporative coolers aren’t the right choice for every situation. They work extremely well in areas with hot, dry climates, but they have a harder time cooling your home when the air outside is hot and humid. They also require water to keep their cooling pads moist, and if you live in an area where drought conditions are common, it may be difficult to keep up with their water consumption.

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