Archive for January, 2012

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Vermillion Plumbing Tip: Common Types of Bathroom Fixtures

Monday, January 30th, 2012

There are many different types of bathroom fixtures for sinks, toilets, showers, and bathtubs that you can have installed in your Vermillion home. Some range from the basic “construction grade” types, used by builders on a budget to the more elaborate custom styles which are often preferred because of looks rather than function.

Choosing a “common” size or style mainly depends on a person’s own taste and use patterns. Let’s start with bathroom sinks.

There are several types of fixtures but not all will fit the existing sink bowl configuration. Take a look at the number of holes and their locations along the top rear rim of the bowl. Usually the bowl will come with a standard three-hole configuration for the water stem and hot and cold water faucets. But once in a while an oddball configuration may pop up so be aware that not every fixture will fit every bowl. The basic configurations include:

  • Single hole faucets which have one arm controlling hot or cold water and one stem or spout for the water flow.
  • Centered faucets where there is on stem centered between the hot and cold faucets, with all components included on one fixture.
  • Spread faucets where each component is unattached and designed to fit into one of three holes in the sink.

There may be space restrictions in your home which would limit the size of the faucets, i.e. a medicine cabinet or window sill which may conflict with a tall spout.

Bathtubs and showers can also use a variety of different fixtures and have similar characteristics as sinks. There can be one fixture with one faucet controlling water flow and temperature. That same fixture might also control flow to the tub filler or to the shower head. This is very common and often the easiest to install and maintain. Other tub and shower fixtures include separate hot and cold water faucets and a separate button or lever to change the water flow from the tub filler to the shower head.

There generally would be no space restrictions on the size of tub and shower fixture, since all are designed to fit into a standard envelope.

Toilets are perhaps the most standard of all bathroom fixtures. The only real differences are in toilet bowl size – and that has become standard thanks to the National Energy Policy Act which mandates 1.6 gallon toilets. Older homes built before 1995 may have larger capacity bowls of 3.5 gallons. The “guts” of a toilet (flushing/water control) may vary and its cosmetic look may definitely vary, but in the end its function remains the same.

The only size restriction to consider may be the shape of the bowl and how it would fit along a wall or in a corner. And it might be a minor point but keep this in mind: not all toilet seats come in generic sizes, i.e. round or oblong.

If you have any questions about what fixtures will work in your bathroom, give Pompeii’s a call!

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Avon Lake Plumbing Guide: Easy Drain and Sewer Maintenance

Friday, January 27th, 2012

When it comes to your Avon Lake home’s plumbing, one of the most important things you can do is perform regular drain and sewer maintenance. Those pipes are vital to maintaining a steady flow of waste water out of your home – if something goes wrong, you’ll regret not fixing it earlier. Here are some easy strategies for maintaining your drains and sewer lines:

  • Avoid Unflushable Items – Some items are designed to be flushed down the toilet. Everything else is not. If something isn’t specifically designed to go down your toilet, don’t put it down there. This includes paper towels, napkins, any kind of food, floss, or hair, and anything else that should go in a garbage can. Toilets may seemingly whisk everything away in one flush, but a lot of that stuff can get stuck on its trip to the sewer.
  • Clear Drains Weekly – You can’t clean your sewer line without professional help, but you can do your best to keep drains clear on their way out. Use boiling hot water and lemon juice or a mixture of baking soda and vinegar once a week to clear out the drains of any excess build up. Also, avoid putting any grease or other gunk down the drain that might stick to food particles and clog the drains.
  • Have Slow Drains Inspected – If a drain in your home slows down significantly, have it inspected. It might be a bit of hair stuck in a trap somewhere, or it could be your sewer line starting to clog. It’s better to know now than to wait and fall victim to a much larger problem in weeks or months.
  • Use Drain Strainers – Don’t let anything go directly down the drain. Use strainers to block food, hair or other stuff from getting into the sink or bathtub drains. Hair in particular, when mixed with grease or soap can become a glue-like substance in your drains.

Drainage and sewer maintenance are services that can be scheduled with Pompeii’s Plumbing and Heating to ensure that all your drain lines are open and flowing efficiently to maximize residential drainage. It is the general maintenance that helps to stop small unseen issues, before they turn into larger and much more costly situations.

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Amherst Plumbing Repair Question: Why Does My Sink Backup When I Run the Washing Machine?

Wednesday, January 25th, 2012

Every now and then something strange happens that is simultaneously baffling and frustrating. Gray water from your washing machine backing up into your sink is one such problem and for many Amherst homeowners it can be an ongoing source of annoyance.

Why does this happen? To start with, know that your sink and washing machine drain lines tend to run congruent to each other. This means they combine at some point on the way to the main sewer line. So, if there is a problem after they combine, it can affect both systems.

How to Fix the Problem

First, you must pinpoint the problem. More often than not, a washing machine backup will occur in one or more sinks during or after the drain cycle of your washing machine. This may not happen every time or it may get progressively worse. It depends on why it is happening in the first place.

If the sink doesn’t back up on its own when you do the dishes or run the faucet, the clog is probably deeper in the pipes and only responds to the large volume of water being drained from your washing machine. In either case, you probably have a clog in the drainage pipe after the two combine.

Do NOT use any chemicals to clear the clog. Not only do chemicals cause damage to your pipes, which can lead to cracks and leaks later, they are not always effective at actually removing the problem – they simply minimize it in the short term.

To solve the problem, you’ll either need to plunge the sink and hopefully clear out the clog or have someone snake the line to pull the clog out of the drain pipe. If you cannot clear it on your own, it may be a good time to call an Amherst plumber for a more in-depth attempt to fix the problem.

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Westlake Plumber’s Tip: Taking Good Care of Your Garbage Disposal

Monday, January 23rd, 2012

The garbage disposal is one of those innovations that we generally take for granted now in Westlake, but was probably absolutely amazing to the guy who first saw one in action. The convenience of having a whirring blade just below your sink to pulverize food into pipe-friendly paste is pretty incredible.

However, because we sometimes take disposals for granted, we forget to take care of them properly. Disposals don’t ask for much, just a little attention now and then to keep them performing at their peak. There are some pretty simple tasks you can do periodically to keep your disposal happy:

  • When using the disposal, be sure to run water down the drain and leave it running for 15 to 20 seconds after you turn the disposal off.
  • The smaller the pieces going down the disposal, the better. Those blades may be powerful, but they can still sputter and stall against a formidable foe.
  • Every so often, dump a tray of ice cubes down the drain and turn the disposal on while running cold water. This sharpens the blades and helps keep them clean. The noise is a little intense, but it’s perfectly safe.
  • Grease, corn husks, potatoes and anything made of paper or plastic are not suitable for the disposal or plumbing in your home. Throw them away instead.
  • To subdue unpleasant odors, throw some lemon peels down the disposal.
  • To clean your disposal and remove mineral deposits, pour in a cup of vinegar and let it sit for about an hour, then flush with hot water.
  • Never use bleach or other chemicals to clean your garbage disposal, as it can damage the machinery.

These small steps, simple as they may seem, can go a long way toward keeping your system running strong and continuing to make your life easier for a long time. You can see some of these tips in action, as well as learn how to fix some common disposal problems from this video at GMC Trade Secrets.

It’s a dirty job, so help your disposal do it right.

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Elyria Heating Contractor Secret: 5 Little Known Ways to Lower Your Heating Bill

Friday, January 20th, 2012

Finding new ways to lower the heating bills for your Elyria home is always a challenge. Maybe you’ve already insulated and sealed every crawlspace and crack, or you might have recently upgraded that old furnace, but there are always other ways to reduce heat loss in the winter.

Here are five ways to conserve heat that you might not have considered.

1. Insulate Recessed Light Fixtures

While recessed light fixtures save space and give you more control over lighting and design, such as task lighting in kitchens, they can be a hidden source of heat loss. Feel around your recessed lighting fixtures to see if there’s cool air or a draft. If you do, they could need more insulation. However, you have to be extremely cautious about what type of insulation you use around electrical wiring and fixtures. Check with the manufacturer, or call an electrician if you aren’t sure what  type of insulation to use.

2. Insulate Water Heater Tanks

Part of your heating bill each month goes to heating the water in your home. Whether you have a gas, electric, solar, or hybrid hot water heater, every water heater tank has an R-value that determines how much heat it loses. If you have a low R-value, your tank may need more insulation. Call a professional plumber or check your owner’s manual for the R-value of the model you own, but the general rule is that if the tank is warm when you touch it, you may need to buy a “jacket” for your water heater. These are fairly inexpensive, easy to install, and can be found relatively anywhere you buy insulation.

3. Open Curtains on South End

The southern end of your home will get the most sunlight in the winter. If you have curtains or blinds on your windows or doors, leave them open during the day, and make sure you close them at night. Opening them will help warm up the home naturally during the day, and closing them will help keep the cold air out and warm air in at night.

4. Storm Windows and Doors

Many homeowners know they have the option of upgrading old doors and windows that leak air, but not everyone can afford to upgrade all the doors and windows at once. You can also install storm windows and doors to help reserve heat. Before you start comparing prices, remember to measure, since measurements will affect the cost.

5. Close Fireplace Flue

Whenever your flue is open, you are losing large amounts of heat. Close the damper if the fireplace or chimney is not being used. You can also consider upgrading to a more air tight damper.

You can always call Pompeii’s whenever you have questions about lowering your heating costs for your Elyria home.

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Grafton Plumbing Guide: How to Clean Water Spots from a Shower Door

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

The relationship between your Grafton home’s water and your shower is paradoxical. You use the water in the shower to keep yourself clean, and you can use water to keep your shower (and everything else!) clean, but if left unchecked, the water itself will leave your shower dirty and spotty.

Those spots left on your shower door are mineral deposits from water that has evaporated, leaving its mineral passengers behind. They are especially problematic in areas with harder water. Here is how you can get rid of them.

The Natural Way

It may surprise you to know that with all the chemicals available on the market for cleaning the bathroom, the best remedies for hard water are actually natural ones: lemon juice and vinegar. They are both acidic, so they can dissolve the mineral deposits, and they rinse away clean.

To use lemon juice (or a lemon), apply it to a damp sponge and wipe the door. You can also squirt the lemon juice directly on the door and wipe it with a sponge. Use this technique and let the lemon juice soak in a bit for tougher stains. Your shower will not only be clean, but it will smell like lemons.

Although it doesn’t smell as nice as lemon juice, vinegar also works well. Don’t forget the cleaning power of vinegar and baking soda, which generates a powerful chemical reaction that helps break up tough stains. For water spots, mix up a paste of vinegar and baking soda. Use a small brush, like an old toothbrush, to spread the paste around the edges of the shower door and on any tough stains. Wipe it clean with a damp sponge.

You can also use vinegar or lemon juice weekly to keep tough deposits from building up.

Other Ideas

There are some other methods you can use if the spots are really stubborn. CLR, for example, can break up very stubborn mineral deposits, but it is also toxic, so use it sparingly. Daily shower cleaner sprays work well to stop water spots from forming if used regularly.

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Happy Martin Luther King Day from Your Northern Ohio HVAC and Plumbing Contractor!

Monday, January 16th, 2012

Happy Martin Luther King Day! Take some time today to think about how you, like Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., can serve your community. There are hundreds of things you can do to make this world a better place, from helping a neighbor to volunteering for your local homeless shelter. Everyone doing a little bit of extra service can make a big difference!

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North Royalton Drain & Sewer Tips: Troubleshooting Drain Problems

Friday, January 13th, 2012

It’s Saturday afternoon and you are preparing dinner for a number of guests in your North Royalton home. The kitchen is packed with groceries and you start to clean a lot of veggies for dipping. But there is a problem. The drain in your kitchen sink is “acting funny.” It drains slowly and is making a gurgling sound. In fact, it’s beginning to smelly funny, too.

The timing couldn’t be worse. Before you hit the panic button, let’s take a moment to troubleshoot the problem. Maybe it isn’t much of a problem after all.

First of all, is the problem confined to just the kitchen sink? There may be similar problems in other sinks, which would indicate a larger problem with the plumbing in your North Royalton home. Hopefully, the kitchen sink is the only area you need to be concerned with.

Next, if you have a two-basin sink who should check to see if both sides are clogged or just one. Remove all dishes and utensils and run water on both sides. If water drains from one and not the other, there is a clog somewhere in the pipe leading to the union of both pipes. You have now centralized the drain problem. If both sides back up, the clog is further down the pipe. But it is still not a big problem.

One way to troubleshoot for drain problems is to simply run very hot water down the drain. This tends to break up clogs of grease by melting it away. The fix can also be as simple as running the garbage disposal long enough to dislodge any debris. You may even want to grind up some food you were planning to dispose of or take some lettuce greens and use the disposal on them. If this food takes a long time to grind or doesn’t at all, the disposal may be the culprit, leading to blocked drains.

And if you are preparing for your party by taking a shower and the shower drain is acting funny, don’t hit the panic button just yet. You may just have a build-up of hair or skin on the drain cover or screen. Use you foot to swish around the water and if water drains more quickly when you do this, the fix can be as simple as reaching down and picking up the debris. Having a plunger nearby helps, too.

None of this is brain surgery and quick fixes are easy to do. But if the problem persists and you don’t have the time or patience to work on your drain problem, call a plumbing professional – and stick with your party plans.

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Elyria Plumbing Guide: How to Use a Plumber’s Snake

Wednesday, January 11th, 2012

Your Elyria home’s kitchen sink is backed up and you can’t prepare dinner. Or your toilet is plugged and even the plunger isn’t fixing the problem. It may be time to call for the snake – plumber’s snake that is.

For those of you who are intimidated by tools, take note: you have nothing to fear from the snake. It is easy to operate and is an effective alternative to some professional plumbing repairs.

Okay, so you’ve decided to use a snake to unclog your pipe. Do you have one? If you rarely use a snake in your home you might want to consider renting one. Most tool rental shops have snakes in varying sizes for rent – from hand-held to electric. But it is a good idea to have one around for emergencies and you can find hand-held snakes for under $10 (often named “augers”).

The first thing you need to do is prep for the job. Make sure you have cleared out an area to work on the plumbing and that you have plenty of rags to mop up any spills or drips. It is a good idea to lay down some newspaper or plastic to keep the floor and cabinets dry, too.

Make sure you have access to the pipe by removing any drain covering. Obviously you will have directly access to the toilet drain. Before operating the snake you should put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands from the metal coils of the snake and any debris that might be in the pipe.

Next, slowly feed the snake into the pipe. You may have to turn the snake in a clockwise direction to move it along. Once you have reached the clog – and you can usually tell when the snake stops feeding – it is time to rotate the snake into the clog and loosen it up. The head or tip of snake should be able to grab on the debris so that you can pull it back out and dispose of it. In the process, some of the debris may wash away down the pipe and that’s okay (well, as long as it doesn’t accumulate further down the circuit). You really want to use the snake head to “chew up” the debris for removal, rather than just pushing it further down the pipe.

Once you have removed the debris clogging the pipe, run hot water down the pipes to wash away any remnants. Replace the drain cover if necessary and clean up your mess. Voila!

If you have a stubborn clog that won’t snake out or if you just aren’t comfortable using a tool, call a professional Elyria plumber to save you the effort.

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Cleveland Heating Repair: Inspecting Your Furnace Heat Exchanger for Leaks

Monday, January 9th, 2012

Like all the heating and cooling components in your Cleveland home, your furnace needs regular maintenance and annual checkups performed by certified HVAC technicians. Here are some things that a professional heating maintenance technician can do to make sure your furnace is functioning safely.

One of the main concerns with any type of furnace is the potential for carbon monoxide gas leaks, which can be fatal if not detected. The heat exchanger is designed to prevent dangerous flue products from leaking into the home; therefore, it is important to inspect the heat exchanger for any cracks or excessive corrosion.

There are a few methods for introspecting a furnace heat exchanger for leaks and potential repairs (again, best performed by a professional HVAC technician):

  1. Visual Inspection of the Furnace Heat Exchanger. Use a strong flashlight to visually check the heat exchanger thoroughly for cracks or open seams, particularly in areas that are susceptible heat or mechanical stress. Some seams may have been joined improperly during manufacturing, so be sure to check all joints. Also check for rust or corrosion in areas exposed to any type of moisture. Make sure you can gain access to all the parts of the heat exchanger. If you see any cracks, holes, or severe deterioration, your heat exchanger needs a professional repair. Ultimately, you may not be able to see all the parts of your heat exchanger, so further testing is recommended in addition to a visual inspection.
  1. Flame Test. You can also observe the flame after the furnace is first turned on to detect potential damage to the heat exchanger. Turn off the furnace for at least five minutes, and sit close enough to the furnace to observe the burner flame. Have someone turn up the thermostat, and watch the flame for any changes in color or irregular patterns in the flame. If the flame makes any sudden changes, this could mean that the heat exchanger is damaged. Keep in mind that like the visual test, the flame test cannot determine damage to your heat exchanger alone.

In addition to increasing efficiency and lowering your heating bills, inspecting your furnace will ensure that your heating system operates safely throughout the winter. Along with having your heat exchanger inspected, we recommend that you test all the carbon monoxide detectors in your Cleveland home on a regular basis, as well as changing the filter every month and cleaning out the ventilation system.

If you need further assistance, or suspect any leaks in your furnace, you will need to schedule an appointment with a Cleveland HVAC technician. Keep your home warm and safe this winter.

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